Maple Bacon Burnt Ends / Highbanks

The Bitter Withy / Cerys Hafana

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John Fraim

I seldom write a review on just one item on a menu but after our happy hour at Highbank’s Distillery restaurant in Gahana/New Albany tonight, I simply have to say a few words. Steph and I have been to Highbanks a number of times and have always found the menu incredibly creative. The food very unique. A very creative menu at reasonable prices and a great staff.

I have a strange combination of an Ohio and California perspective on life. I was born in LA but have lived in Ohio for many years. I’ve lived in LA, San Francisco, Berkeley and Sonoma. Many great restaurants I’ve been fortunate to experience. Many creative chiefs who experiment with new combinations of ingredients like modern alchemists of food.

One of the great ones I had a chance to eat at a number of times when I lived in Berkeley was Alice Water’s Chez Panisse in north Berkley. It was the beginning of what later became known as California Cuisine. About 60 miles north, in Napa, Sally Schmitt was bringing old California family recipes to the world. Sally and her husband were the original founders of The French Laundry. I fell in love with Sally and wrote a blog on her on my website called The Best Restaurant in the World.

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Last December, I spent a few weeks in Santa Rosa where I lived for five years. Had a chance to visit some great restaurants in Sonoma and Napa but perhaps our favorite was John Ash & Company, just north of Santa Rosa. It’s recognized as the leading restaurant in Sonoma County and perhaps in second place in all the wine country to Napa’s French Laundry, recognized as the nation’s best restaurant and perhaps close to the best in the world. 

When we stayed in Santa Rosa last December, John Ash & Company was just down the road from where we were staying. It was a very rainy but happy December as my step-daughter gave birth to a baby boy. We spent a lot of time there during happy hours with the Christmas lights up giving the restaurant a goldish glow. Had a few great dinners there. 

There were many fantastic and creative items on their happy hour menu at John Ash. I think we tried them all during our visits. They used up and coming chefs who wanted to conquer the Napa/Sonoma restaurant/wine scene. So many were drawn to Sonoma and Napa counties. Some were, I’m sure, refugees from San Francisco and Berkeley.

The Lavender Lady

Yet, tonight, at Highbanks Distillery in Gahana, Ohio (the east side of Columbus) I tasted what I think was the greatest and most creative Appetizer I’ve ever tasted. Anywhere. The name is Maple Bacon Burnt Ends and it is on the Appetizer/Shareables Menu for the incredibly low price of $14. 

While I’m at it, need to also tell you about an amazing vodka drink to go with the Bacon Burnt Ends.The drink Lavender Lady (above photo) is high recommended. Made with high bank vodka, butterfly pea flower, lavender reduction, lemon and rhubarb bitters. Normally $10 but only $7 during happy hour from 3-6. Not that the Highbanks brand needs that much more promotion. But just wanted to let others know I think we have a leading foodie place – anywhere – with Highbanks. Haven’t visited the Grandview location but assume the same. This review based on Highbanks Gahana. 

John

🙂

Note: To those traveling to Columbus from longer distances to visit Highbanks in Gahana, Ohio. I suggest hotels in New Albany just a few miles north of Highbanks.